Recipe from Paola di Mauro
Adapted by Nancy Harmon Jenkins
- Total Time
- 1 hour 35 minutes
- Rating
- 5(224)
- Notes
- Read community notes
This recipe came to The Times in 1994 via Paola di Mauro, an Italian grandmother who lived, cooked and made wine in Marina, a small suburban town some 12 miles southeast of Rome. She was one of a band of cooks, mostly women, stretching back over generations, who have formed Italian cuisine, maintained its traditions and made it one of the world's most beloved and sought-after cooking styles. Italians sometimes call it "cucina casalinga," roughly translated as "housewives' cooking." But with its intense concern for the quality of primary ingredients and its care to combine them in a judicious balance of flavors, it is much more than that. Use the best ingredients you can find. Then let the simplicity of the preparations work its magic. —Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Featured in: Lessons for Chefs in the Old Ways of the Italian Kitchen
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Ingredients
Yield:4 servings
- 2¼pounds young lamb, the leg or shoulder, bone in, cut into eight chunks
- 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 4cloves garlic
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1tablespoon instant flour, like Wondra
- ¾cup dry white wine
- 1tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
- 4oil-packed anchovy filets, coarsely chopped
- 3tablespoons wine vinegar
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)
1774 calories; 183 grams fat; 91 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 76 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 18 grams protein; 762 milligrams sodium
Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.
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Preparation
Step
1
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Step
2
Rinse the lamb chunks under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels.
Step
3
In a casserole or roasting pan large enough to hold all pieces of lamb, heat olive oil over medium-high to high heat. When oil is almost smoking, add lamb chunks and brown quickly, turning frequently, for about 10 to 15 minutes.
Step
4
Coarsely chop 2 of the garlic cloves; add to lamb as it browns. When all the lamb is browned, add salt and abundant pepper. Sprinkle flour over lamb pieces, and turn them to mix in seasoning and salt. Add wine; as soon as it starts to bubble, cover pan and place in oven to roast, covered, for 30 minutes.
Step
5
While lamb is roasting, coarsely chop remaining garlic, and using a mortar and pestle, pound it with chopped rosemary into a coarse paste. Add chopped anchovies, and continue pounding to make a fairly smooth paste. A tablespoon at a time, mix in wine vinegar to make a smooth emulsion.
Step
6
When lamb has roasted for 30 minutes, remove from oven, and pour vinegar emulsion over lamb pieces. Turn them to coat well with sauce. Return to oven, uncovered, to roast an additional 30 minutes.
Step
7
When lamb is done, with no trace of red in the meat, remove from oven, set aside for 5 minutes, then put lamb on a heated serving platter. Bring pan juices to a boil and cook rapidly for about 45 seconds, or just long enough to reduce juices and thicken them slightly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour juices over lamb chunks; serve immediately.
Ratings
5
out of 5
224
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Cooking Notes
Rob-in-Philly
This recipe also works fantastically using lamb shanks. The anchovies work umami magic. I added medium steamed, whole small (not pearl though) onions that melted down and carmalized adding another layer to the sauce and finished dish. A bold red wine also works and gives a different dynamic to the sauce.
nancy harmon jenkins
How fascinating to see this recipe, which I published in the NYT back in 1994, almost 25 years ago. Paola di Mauro, whose recipe I described, was indeed a very great cook and this recipe, in its simplicity and directness, is emblematic of her style--which itself was the essence of la cucina casalinga romana. Thanks, Sam and the NYT, for resurrecting it.
Annie
I finally got around to this dish - wonderful. I took Rob in Philly's advice and used shanks and sweet onion,pretty finely chopped. During the last simmer of the sauce I added a knob of butter. One thing I would recommend if you don't happen to have white vinegar, an equivalent of lemon juice would suffice, and you have the added benefit of rind that you can simmer in the sauce, then remove.
Lily
This looks awesome. One question though... why use wondra and not just standard flour?
Bellie
This was rustic in a not-so-special way. Sauce came out like a salty gravy. Perhaps more rosemary. Easy recipe though.
aly r.
I used whole lamb shanks (not cut up) and this came out fantastic. Served to an audience of anchovy haters and got rave reviews!!
jim
Couldn't get rosemary sprigs so used thyme sprigs instead-- and it got eaten all up! Simple and full-flavored. Added this to my lamb resumé. Thanks
Peter
Wow! This was exceptional. A few minor tweaks: Went a little wetter with a mix of lamb stock and white wine coming to 1 1/4 cups. Didn't have any Wondra so used 00 flour instead - worked great.Chose white wine vinegar.
Michael Feldman
I haven't tried the recipe yet but actually stayed a week in the vineyard, Colle Picchioni where Madame di Mauro lived, cooked and produced a lovely wine. The estate is now run by her Grandson and his gracious wife, the wine...though not widely available in the US is lovely, successful and reasonably priced. If you wind up in Rome, I recommend a visit...do make an appointment.It's in the Lazio countryside, not far from Castel Gandolfo.
ttweakdave
Started this on a late Sat. morning as written but using boneless lamb chunks and 00 flour in my Dutch oven. During second roast with emulsion, caramelized red onions with a little more vinegar and pepper in a pan. After 5 min rest, transferred lamb to onion pan to keep warm. Added white wine to deglaze and make a thick gravy as my lamb pot was a little dry. Poured over onion lamb tangle and used for open faced sandwiches with sliced avocado and feta cheese. Best brunch ever!
Kent
Very easy and delicious. I seasoned the lamb pre-sear, used a red syrah in place of the white wine, and added in cipollini onions and rainbow carrots before putting into the oven.
amy
As far as the Wondra flour — you can make your own by looking it up or just sift 2 tbsp flour with a tad of cornstarch (maybe an 1/8 tsp) and then sift together 2 more times. I had my butcher cut the lamb for me but it didn’t exactly look like the photo. Four thinner pieces that they chopped in half including bone on each one. I’d love to see photos or sketch of how these were chopped.
Patrick Chadd
Made this as written with meat from a leg of lamb - I doubled the recipe. The only change I had was that I used fish sauce in place of the anchovies (as I was out) and it was 1/2 teaspoon to 1 anchovy fillet. It's in keeping with the Roman nature of the dish - you can use modern garums like: Colatura di Alici or Flor de Garum or a very good quality fish sauce like: Red Boat 40 N or MegaChef 30 N. 1 hour of cooking isn't enough to tenderize so I did 30 mins in my Instant Pot on High.
Ann
Definitely use red wine. I would suggest braising for an 1 1/2. Then add pearl onions, baby carrots and emulsion. Finish as directed.
Naani-Daadi
I do lamb a lot. This is a quick recipe and simple while one is assembling the rest of the meal. I too used red wine, not white, and added fresh thyme and oregano towards the end of reducing the sauce. I served it on arborio rice. I saved using balsamic vinegar for the simple mixed green salad at the end of the meal with slices of figs and candies pecans. I will do this again!
Linda
Like Ann, I'm wondering about the cut of meat and how you "cut it into chunks". Does this mean you cut it into chunks that are boneless? What do you do with the bone?
Callen
That is exactly my question too. "Bone-in, cut into eight chunks"? Really???????
souschef
Bones are always good to keep in a dish, they add flavor and body. I just use a heavy cleaver. Yes, cook the bones!
nancy harmon jenkins
How fascinating to see this recipe, which I published in the NYT back in 1994, almost 25 years ago. Paola di Mauro, whose recipe I described, was indeed a very great cook and this recipe, in its simplicity and directness, is emblematic of her style--which itself was the essence of la cucina casalinga romana. Thanks, Sam and the NYT, for resurrecting it.
Leyla
Funny---I was looking for a way to cook a lamb leg and pulled your book, 'Mediterrean Cooking' off the shelf first Nancy..... Then found this in the NYT Cookbook..... Then found your comment...... serendipity!! This is what I am making tonight! Film at 11..... :-)
Ann
I assume you debone, so can boneless leg of lamb be an option?
Maggie
The recipe specifically says bone-in. I'm sure you can use a boneless leg, but it may cook in less time and be less juicy.
Annie
I finally got around to this dish - wonderful. I took Rob in Philly's advice and used shanks and sweet onion,pretty finely chopped. During the last simmer of the sauce I added a knob of butter. One thing I would recommend if you don't happen to have white vinegar, an equivalent of lemon juice would suffice, and you have the added benefit of rind that you can simmer in the sauce, then remove.
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